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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.